Get to Know Your Clay Pomade
… And paste, and cream, and even gel. A scientifical look at the stuff you’ve been putting in your hair.
Before you worry about your hair products, you should understand your hair. Each hair shaft is covered in interlocking layers that form the cuticle. The more layers you have (based on factors like genetics and age), the thicker your hair is and the more easily it holds the shape you give it. Each hair follicle has its own sebaceous gland, which pumps oil onto the hair shaft, keeping it soft and moisturized—if you’ve been treating yourself right. Hair can easily dry out from things like too much sun and cheap shampoo. If you’re curious about what you’re dealing with, pull out a hair and put it in a bowl of water. If it’s dry and damaged, it’ll sink, which shouldn’t worry you. Just use a paste or grooming cream, both of which have oils and moisturizers.
CREAM
Finishing creams contain the same resins, but in much smaller amounts, along with silicones and oils for shine. Redken for Men Get Groomed finishing cream ($13; redken.com) leaves your hair polished but not greasy or wet-looking.
Good for: Long or thick hair. A cream won’t give you a lot of hold, but it will smooth your hair and keep any strays off your face.
PASTE
Pastes are a happy medium between grooming cream and pomade. The petroleum jelly is balanced with oils and conditioners, giving you hold without the greasy feel. The new Old Spice Unruly texturizing paste ($5.99; amazon.com) smells great, like an ocean breeze.
Good for: Fine or dry hair in short-to-medium-length cuts. Pastes provide control without weighing your hair down.
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SALT SPRAY
This is a relatively new category, and it seems to be everywhere. Salt sprays give you a mussed-up, lived-in look, which previously you could get only by spending a week either at the beach or away from a shower.Axe Matte Effect texturizing salt spray ($17; axematte-effect.us) is made with glycerin and castor oil, which counteract the drying effects of the salt and keep your hair from crusting and flaking.
Good for: Medium-length cuts. Also great if your hair is thinning, since the saltwater coats individual hairs and creates separation between them, giving the impression of volume.
GEL
Like cargo shorts, the latest gels are a far cry from their ’90s-era predecessors. Good gels, like Kiehl’s Clean-Hold styling gel ($16; kiehls.com), have resins to create hold and silicones or oils for conditioning. You still get the hold, but not the crunch or flaking.
Good for: Shorter hair, for a very tailored, professional look.
CLAY POMADE
You know pomade: basically Vaseline for your head. New clay pomades, however, like Baxter of California’s ($20; baxterofcalifornia.com), incorporate beeswax and bentonite clay, so you still get a tight, organized style but with a matte finish. It’s basically pomade for guys who don’t want an obvious part. Or suspenders.
Good for: Short-to-medium cuts or thick, unruly hair. Clay pomade can smooth curls, cowlicks, and any other problem areas.
With thanks to Arun Nandagiri at Bria Research Labs.
Rodney Cutler is an Ironman triathlete and the owner of Cutler salons in New York City.
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