Kollin Carter On The Evolving Role Of Stylists, Couture For The Curvy Girls, And The Joy Of Dressing Cardi B
Style has always been a key aspect of entertainment.
From the fabulous fringe and embellished toppers on the juke joint stage, to the elaborate fits our faves rock today on arena floors, an artist’s sense of fashion has a direct correlation to how they’re perceived, how their art is received by the masses, and how they are remembered throughout time. There’s a reason icons like Tina Turner, Diana Ross, Prince, and Micheal Jackson are not only revered for their craft, but for the unforgettable looks that have inspired generations to follow.
While many of our icons were forced to dress themselves due to lack of funds and high-end connections, others were helped along by students of the game who studied the streets and runways of Paris, Milan, New York, etc. for constant inspiration, bringing that to the gig of dressing some of the biggest names in history. Unfortunately, the names of many of these fashion-forward trailblazers have been lost to time.
Over the last two decades, however, the stylist has moved to the forefront of fashion conversations. Still playing liaison between the stars and the labels clamoring for our faves to don their wears, today’s stylists now have name recognition and personal brands of their own. For instance, Ty Hunter’s brilliant eye helped bring Beyoncé to the forefront of fashion conversations, while Law Roach continues to ensure Zendaya remains on every “Best Dressed” list thanks to his taste and chemistry with the stunning actress.
The same goes for Kollin Carter, a wardrobe maven that has crafted looks for everyone from Victoria Monét and Kelly Rowland to Naomi Campbell and Cardi B, whom he most recently styled for Marc Jacob’s latest collection showing in NYC.
“For so long, stylists have been considered or looked at as the help, a plus one, or people who help bring these moments together that live in the background,” Carter told VIBE ahead of his D’USSE Brunch in Los Angeles Saturday (June 29). “I’m happy that it’s beginning to change, and we are being viewed as the ‘talent.’ We all put in a lot of work, so it’s great that we are finally being recognized as being responsible for some of these huge cultural moments.”
Within our exclusive Q&A, Carter opens up to VIBE about his own journey within fashion, his thoughts on couture for the curvy girls, working with clients like Cardi and brands like Mugler, and his plans to transition into new territory…eventully. Check it out below.
VIBE: Who was your first celebrity client, and what was the event/year?
Kollin Carter: My first celebrity client that I styled on my own was Nicole Scherzinger in 2015.
How would you say you’ve evolved as a stylist since?
As I’ve evolved, I’ve realized that no one wants to hear the excuses. I’ve had to learn how to make the impossible possible, and that’s given me so much confidence in myself and my work even beyond styling.
Were you ever made to feel like you didn’t belong in the high fashion space? How did you overcome that feeling?
Honestly, I overcame it with time internally. Being a minority you don’t see a lot of people who look like you in the room. I had to internalize that and tell myself that I was good enough. That didn’t come from anyone else, it was something I had to figure out on my own. It took a lot of talking in the mirror and speaking into existence.
Can you speak to styling women who are outside of the “model” body type that houses design couture for?
So many fashion houses don’t design couture for women who aren’t considered sample size. Even ready to wear isn’t size inclusive for everyone. But that just makes it even more of a ‘WOW’ when I can achieve the same look with someone who is shorter, or curvier, or requires that extra step to do alterations to make sure the sizing is perfect.
Which celebrity client has been the most fun to style? Why?
I always have fun working with Cardi. She’s always open to my ideas, and even when she doesn’t see the vision at first, she trusts me. Cardi is not afraid to be campy when a lot of people are because they don’t want to look silly. But I think our most campy looks have been some of our most memorable, and that’s why we work so well together. She lets me explore my own artistry and I’m grateful for that.
What do you think is the single best look you’ve styled of your career? What about it sets it apart?
I’ve always loved the Thom Browne look I worked on for Met Gala in 2019. I was heavily involved in the designing process from beginning to end. I discussed and sent sketches back and forth to Thom Browne, sharing ideas I had that were reimagined from his prior collections. I had never styled a look that intricate. We had around 70,000 feathers, $2M ruby nipples. Her headpiece was fully embroidered by Thom Browne. The attention to details and love that came with putting the look together took about three months.
What other labels/ designers have been generous with items, and how did you come to build great relationships with them?
Mugler has always been a brand that’s been super receptive to me as a stylist. Years ago, I reached out to Thierry Mugler and we worked together and had a big archival moment. That kick started my work with Casey when he started at Mugler, and we’ve built a great relationship. Another designer who has been very supportive from the very start for Cardi and I was Christian Siriano. He was one of the first designers to ever dress Cardi, and has always been a big cheerleader for us. I know if we ever need anything, he is someone we can always call.
How did you come to build your relationship with D’usse?
I’ve always loved D’USSE. The brand told me they were setting out to redefine brunch, and wanted me to be part of it, because that’s exactly what I strive to do with my clients and in my work. So working together was a no brainer. Together we’re bringing a new kind of stylish luxury to brunch, from the fits, to the music, cocktails, and more.
Fave cocktail?
Lately, I’ve been loving spritz style cocktails, especially now that it’s getting warm. Working with D’USSE, I’ve realized that cognac actually is a delicious addition to a spritz cocktail. People think cognac is only for the evening but it’s actually a great way to add flavor and richness to daytime or summer cocktails. Together we crafted what we call the “Kollin Lemonade Spritz,” which features D’USSE VSOP, fresh lemonade and is topped with prosecco. I sometime include a hit of peach to elevate it for the summer too!
Fave movie?
I can say that my favorite movie from my childhood was Crooklyn. I do love the movie Cast Away, too.
Song stuck in your head right now?
Right now, it’s Kendrick Lamar’s “Not Like Us”.
Fave designer, womenswear and menswear?
For menswear, I have loved Egonlab and Loewe. For womenswear, it’s been Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli, always.
Do you see yourself as a career long stylist, or do you have other career goals that you want to pivot towards in the future?
I don’t see myself styling for the rest of my life. I give myself another 5 years maybe… When I do leave styling, I want to pivot into things that are still related to fashion. I envision putting together some kind of master class that gives back to younger stylists, or even creating an agency for them. I get a lot of work I have to turn down because I don’t have the bandwidth, and there are a lot of talented people out there who could do it so well, but just haven’t been given the opportunity. So, I’d like to continue to create and also be able to give other opportunities to young stylists.
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