Latke Frying Mistakes to Avoid

Photo: Andrew Scrivani/StockFood

Hot oil has a tendency to ratchet up the heat in a kitchen, and we’re not just talking temperature. A simmering, splattering skillet of oil can prove a danger to even the most seasoned cook, and a tiny misstep might be the difference between perfectly crisp and depressingly soggy. And on Hanukkah, the Jewish holiday celebrated with fried potato latkes, the heat is on.

But never fear. Food writer Leah Koenig, whose new cookbook Modern Jewish Cooking goes on sale in spring 2015, has some tips for maneuvering around the worst latke-frying blunders.

1. Be sure to drain those taters.
"There’s this old saying, ‘Water and oil don’t mix,’ and that’s especially true with hot oil," Koenig told us. When H2O hits bubbling oil, the latter begins to pop and sputter—and that can be dangerous. She suggests bundling grated ingredients in a paper towel or clean dish cloth, then squeezing to release the liquids within, before adding them to oil. Do this two or three times. "There’s a surprising amount of liquid in potatoes and onions," she said. "It’s a little extra work, but it really does make a big difference.”

2. Make sure the oil is hot enough.
"The whole purpose of deep or shallow frying is to sear the outside so that the food cooks all the way through, but it doesn’t soak up a lot of oil," Koenig explained. If you have a thermometer, check that the oil temperature is between 325 and 375 degrees. Otherwise, it’s a game of trial and error: "Keep adjusting the heat until you notice that the latke is browning pretty quickly,” she said. “If it’s not bubbling furiously, you want to start over. Otherwise, you’ll end up with soggy, heavy latkes.”

Latkes topped with smoked salmon. Photo: Neilson Barnard/Getty 

3. Use the right oil
Although olive oil may be great for searing a filet of salmon, keep it far away from your latkes. “Olive oil has a low smoke point, which means that it starts to smoke pretty quickly when you put it on high heat,” Koenig said. Instead, choose a mild-flavored vegetable oil such as sunflower, peanut, vegetable, or safflower oil.

4. Don’t puree your potatoes.
Blitzing potatoes in a blender breaks up their cell walls, releasing sticky starch molecules. More blending equals starchier, gummier latkes. “When you’re starting with paste, your latkes are going to be pasty,” Koenig said. Instead, break down the taters with a box grater, or use food processor with a shredding disc insert.

Latke “poutine” with onion gravy and farmers cheese. Photo: The Washington Post/Getty

5. Get creative with the toppings.
OK, this isn’t frying advice, but a garnish is the best way to enjoy expertly-prepared latkes. Though applesauce and sour cream are the traditional accompaniments, Koenig believes in shaking things up a bit. “You can do a chutney instead of apple sauce, or mix all kinds of flavors into your sour cream, like chives or curry. Sometimes I do a cinnamon and maple sour cream topping!” she said. “You can even do crème fraiche or goat cheese whipped with herbs instead of the traditional sour cream.”

6. Think beyond the potato.
Experimentation doesn’t have to end with toppings. You might try parsnip latkes, curried sweet potato latkes, or even zucchini latkes. ”I would say go for it!” Koenig told us. “The worst thing that happens is that you don’t make them again next year.”

More stories about Jewish food:
What Is Jewish Southern Food?
The Secret to the Best Brisket
Yes, You Should Drink Manischewitz at Passover—in a Cocktail

What’s your favorite latke recipe? Share it below!