48 hours in . . . Mumbai, an insider guide to the Gateway of India
City of Bollywood and of dreams
If New Delhi is the Washington DC of India, Mumbai is New York. It’s the country's commercial, fashion and cinematic capital, and a place of extremes – harbouring the world’s most extravagant house (Mukesh Ambani’s Antilia, with 27 storeys and three helipads), as well as one of its largest slums. Built across seven islands and reclaimed land, Mumbai’s coastal location provides its 18 million residents with lungfuls of sea air. There are ancient monuments out on Elephanta Island and hidden in the vast jungle-park, Sanjay Gandhi National Park, at the city’s northern edge, but this is still a young city, established as a trading hub in the 17th century. Colonial-era monuments vie with each other along the waterfront, while glass-and-concrete structures increasingly claim the skyline.
Abigail Blasi, our resident expert, offers her top tips on the hottest things to do and places to drink and stay this season.
Stay
Mumbai has legions of five-star and business hotels, but few characterful guesthouses. James Ferreira’s home – Ferreira House (47D Khotachiwadi; 00 91 22 6213 3333) – bucks the trend, with three antique-furnished, lace-curtained rooms in a Portuguese-era wooden house.
Drink
Asilo (St Regis Hotel, 462 Senapati Bapat Marg; 00 91 22616 28031) has had a recent makeover and is Mumbai’s highest rooftop bar, on the 40th floor, with big loungey, white sofas and endless views over the racecourse, the sea, and the spangled city lights. On the menu are high-end nibbles and cocktails that blend fresh fruits and spices.
? The best nightlife in Mumbai
Do
Bollywood Tours (00 91 98208 22253) are now being offered by reliable and professional local tour company Reality Tours & Travel – some of the proceeds of their work goes back to Mumbai’s community via their NGO Reality Gives. The tour takes you to see Bollywood star’s houses before visiting the studios themselves.