From Aquazzura to Giuseppe Zanotti, Designer Shoes Look to Inject Excitement Into Fall 2025 at Milan Fashion Week
When it comes to luxury shoes and bags from specialty brands, there’s no place like Milan Fashion Week. As many fashion brands look to move away from the “quiet luxury” trend, accessories seen at presentations around town provided a much-needed injection of newness and glamour, with unexpected twists dominating the fall 2025 collections.
Here, a roundup of some of the week’s key accessories’ presentations.
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For fall 2025, Aquazzura creative director and founder Edgardo Osorio wanted to play with the notion of day-to-night transition with street-to-slope options. But most of the options seen at the Milan presentation lend themselves more to an opulent night on the town, like the intricate Ce Soir sandal featuring a scalloped upper adorned with hand-applied paillettes, reminiscent of a mermaid’s scales in glazed rose, aqua and gold, and the Sweet Surrender sandal, infused with an Art Deco inspiration. A highlight came via the use of mesh, tulle and netting on the Bisous mule, the Bow Tie Net flats and pumps, the Love Affair pump.
Art Deco inspired golden details were also seen at Gianvito Rossi. Boots took center stage this season — with over-the-knee styles seen in buttery-soft suede infused with golden elements, which soar stylishly to the sky, while there also were chunky platform sandals with a ‘70s edge. Rossi’s presentation doubled down on the importance of the designer’s iconic pump, which was shown in over 30 shades of suede, from a rich purple to several variations of browns.
A collegiate theme strung together Pollini’s “refined classics” fall collection. This season, the brand’s Archive collection welcomed a new reinterpretation of the classic Cavaliere boot, including a tubular style with a chunky sole and super-lightweight lug bottom, crafted in a soft lacquered leather with a maxi croc-print effect. As for the bags, a new crossbody was seen everything from polished calfskin to grained leather, enriched with a metallic buckle featuring the classic Pollini logo. The brand also introduced a performance-leaning capsule named P-Ride in collaboration with Michelin and its footwear licensing partner, JV International. Inspired by trail running shoes, the collection includes several styles in three different colorways boasting ultralight soles with extra grip.
Dubbed “Back to Myself,” this season’s Giuseppe Zanotti brought opulence and embellishments back in full force. A highlight was the sleek Intriigo shape, with a towering stiletto heel, which was reimagined with a new jewel toe adorned with pavé-set, baguette-cut crystals. A showstopping evening sandal, like the iconic Venere sandal, made a grand comeback in the form of the new GZ Dafne, which features a flexible metal and crystal pavé choker that drapes across the foot like a piece of fine jewelry. Plus, from the ’90s, came a striking over-the-knee boot in suede, enveloping the leg like a second skin.
According to Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi, this season’s collection is filled with tactile contrasts and warm tones with finishes that “beg you to touch.” New for the season, the Farren round-toe pump offered a sculptural take on a traditionally ladylike silhouette; presented in soft high-shine calf leather and chocolate-hued mock croc. The Tylor was also a new consideration of volume with a chunky, sturdy loafer-inspired silhouette, presented with a belt detail across the vamp and an amped-up heel. This season also introduced the Scarlett pump, its sharply pointed toe in black napa balanced on a lacquered 95mm Drop heel, alongside the new Scarlett ballerina, with rounded toe and corset straps, executed in chocolate-mix zebra patterns.
Santoni marked the start of its 50th anniversary with the presentation of its latest collection. The elevated women’s line this season revolved around the ideas of “everyday glamour” and “refined ease,” seen in pumps that feature elongated vamps and softly rounded toes that rise on sculpted heels. Ankle boots hug the leg made in supple lambskin, while loafers are sculpted with slender lines and delicate piping.
Hogan looked to its urban home of Milan for fall 2025. First up, the brand renewed its Hogan Cool sneakers with a brand-new signature maxi sole in lightweight crepe, which contrasts the upper with the chunky lower construction. Plus, the Olympia is presented in a new, slim-fit and super-feminine design mixed with a football-inspired tread. Both sneaker and ballerina versions were served in deep-tan suede, as well as white or silver leather. As for bags, the Script logo shopper was made in an even lighter, more relaxed shopping bag in an allover calfskin leather, suede or pony skin, while the Flap Bag reinterpreted a classic camera bag in smooth calfskin leather.
Paul Andrew’s debut collection for Sergio Rossi was an exploration of the archives and legacy of the brand. A true standout in the collection was the new Sinuous wedge, which is crafted in carbon fiber and then either galvanized in silver or gold finishes or lacquered for a color surface. The Surge was another new shoe family for Andrew’s Sergio Rossi, which is characterized by a chiseled pyramid toe shape seen across styles including sandals, loafers, slides and mules.
Multiple personalities — six to be exact — were on display at the Fratelli Rossetti presentation. The theme was to highlight the different moods of the collection, which centered around the label’s Brera loafer. One personality dubbed “I Am Wild,” sees the loafer in an animalier version, featuring a giraffe-patterned “printed pony” finish, while the “I Am Cozy” version of the loafer was made entirely of a wool-blend fabric and was adorned with patterns typical of hand-knit sweaters.
Eye-catching gold embroidery defined Rene Caovilla’s latest collection. It was a golden fantasy that evokes couture ateliers that enriches the Cleo model, along with two new flat models, the mule and the slingback. Full crystal models offered by the historic brand also sparkled, like slingbacks, mary janes with Parisienne c?té and boots, as well as flat ballerinas, kitten heels and stilettos. This season also launched the Spark model, a new snake made of luminous stones that wrap around the ankle in a spiral of crystal baguettes. This new accessory was available in purple, orange, and gray metallic fabrics, blue, purple, and raspberry velvet.
Mach & Mach brought the moon to Earth for its new “Cosmos” collection for fall. The star, no pun intended, of the show was the new “floating pearls” concept that was seen on the brand’s most popular models. Silver, moon-textured displays showcased the brand’s new and signature shoe families — Double Bow, Orchid, Galaxy, Le Cadeau, and others —positioned like constellations in orbit. A playful take on polka dots and bows was also seen throughout the collection.
Paris Texas showcased a mix of boots and heels for fall 2025 including the crystal-embedded Lidia, which features crystal stones hand-set in a brass chain against a backdrop of satin and metallic shades. Plus, the El Dorado boots dig into classic Americana roots, showcasing Western-inspired embroidery and the addition of an internal shearling liner, while the Aspen fur-covered boot features a curly, European lamb shearling against natural shades of cognac and black.
Inspired by contemporary architecture, the fall 2025 Alexandre Birman collection featured striking silhouettes, from angular heels to curved lines. The collection’s color palette introduced deep, rich tones like Espresso, Dark Ruby and Brickwood, complemented by neutrals such as Meringue and Eggshell. Velvety suedes, polished leathers, and metallic finishes were also seen throughout the line. Standout styles included the Gia Family, which features a vintage-inspired heel with a contrast of black suede and metallic plaid, and the Thalita Family, which is a series of bold platform heels in 90mm and 125mm heights.
A new chain heel stole the show at the Casadei presentation last week. The Tacco Infinity chain heels is a look to the future of the brand with a metallic, stand-out shape. Other highlights include the iconic Blade heel seen in the Aurora bootie, with its regal cape-like ankle detail, and the Lingerie boot with flocked panels to give the illusion of lace. This season also expanded the recently launched Après Ski collection with the introduction of a new faux fur boot designed to transition from city streets to mountain retreats.
The notion of “Goth couture” took over the fall season for AGL — with inspiration hailing from ‘90s rock bands. The collection saw rock star shapes, like a combat boot covered in floral cutouts and piercings, while mary janes were seen with a removable chain that covers the heel. Other standouts included booties with graphic lacquered heels, made in animal print leather with ribbons and piercing, and ballet shoe styles made in squared or pointy-toe models in soft faux fur or macro flower.
Le Silla took inspiration from Jamiroquai’s hit song “Virtual Insanity” this season to blend nostalgia and innovation into one. This could be seen as fur added a playful twist to the Bella mules with 80mm and 120mm spike heels, the Danielle ballet flats with jeweled buckles, and the Andy cuffed boots. Pony fur in animal prints such as leopard and cowhide took center stage on Bella boots with wide shafts. Plus, Western styles remain important with the Eva boots in soft suede, reinterpreted with cascading fringes and stiletto heels, and the Tess boots in a boho-metropolitan style featuring a Western-inspired heel, with or without a metallic toe cap.
Inspired by the history and architecture of Bologna, the Testoni fall ‘25 collection celebrated the brand’s century-long legacy of Italian craftsmanship. At the core of the collection was the brand’s new Lacquer Spiral, an evolution of the spring ‘25 Gold Spiral, which involves molding, engraving, plating, and lacquering using a custom formula. Plus, the new Enzo Shopper, a unisex tote available in two sizes, boasted clean lines in solid leather and Intreccio versions crafted from smooth French calf leather.
Rising designer Felipe Fiallo presented his latest creations amid a lot of buzz. On this occasion, the designer released the Soccer City Sneaker, which reinvents the classic soccer shoe with eco-materials, a lightweight regenerative translucent TPU outsole, and an ultra-precise Italian construction that showcases the next step in sneaker innovation. What’s more the new Rhino Laufer, Fiallo’s first-ever formal silhouette, fuses elegance with high-performance craftsmanship, proving that sustainability and luxury can coexist seamlessly.
Enterprise Japan’s lates collection centered around a sneaker produced in the heart of the Marche footwear region of Italy. This could be seen in the EJ Egg Rocket, Enterprise Japan’s first style, and the EJ Run Rocket shoes, inspired by the running world that features a lightweight construction and a strong grip sole. The limited edition of the Run was also seen in animalier versions made of calf hair and printed suede.
The range of sneakers grows in the latest Geox collection, which features its “Fast-In System” technology for a slip-on effect. There were new interpretations of Spherica Plus in leather or knit with a Lurex accent, and Nebula Plus, another brand staple that appears in a new version with a technological update. The more formal models focus on styles that tap into seasonal trends and shades: from loafers to boots in a range of heights and materials, from platforms with an urban feel to ballet flats and mary jane court shoes.
At the heart of Premiata’s new collection was the Prima Linea, which debuted a new heel shape this season. Premium materials played a key role in the collection, like pony hair, which was the undisputed star of the season, and blends with a sophisticated color palette ranging from deep black to intense burgundy and forest green. The collection’s standout designs mixed sporty elements with feminine allure. Among them were a pair of bold ankle boots enriched with metallic buckles and contrast stitching, sculptural-heeled booties and ballet-inspired designs.
Flower Mountain’s connection to its Japanese roots is prevalent this season with the debut of the Yamabushi sneaker model. Inspired by Japanese mountain aesthetics, the new shoe is designed for trail running with a woven upper and an EVA and rubber sole for lightness and stability. Another standout is the Yamano 3 model, presented in a monochromatic version with a tone-on-tone sole and crafted entirely from nubuck in an exclusive limited edition. Alongside it is the Yamano 3 Performance, an evolution of the brand’s bestseller, integrating new technical features such as a Vibram sole to ensure maximum durability and comfort.
A sense of wanderlust inspired the latest Voile Blanche collection for fall 2025. This season introduces a new take on the kitten heel: a 3 cm heel – featured in both pumps and boots – complementing the squared shapes with cylindrical heels and the refined Cosmo collection, a feminine capsule with a higher heel. Shearling – an ever-present feature in Voile Blanche’s winter collections – takes center stage this season, defining interiors and aesthetic details. Plus, the “Foot Shaped” models stand out with their bold and enveloping silhouette, featuring round and asymmetrical toes. This philosophy extends across various footwear categories, including ankle boots, loafers, and sneakers.
In its fall 2025 collection dubbed “Pretty Gritty,” Stuart Weitzman explored the duality between feminine styles and rugged designs, showcasing footwear that ran the gamut from the Vinnie pumps and boots with a sculptural pointed toe and angular heels to the lug-soled boat shoes, chukka boots and lace-up booties included in the Hudson line. In between, the brand played with smooth block heels and rounded toes in its reinterpretation of the mary jane style and offered new takes on its 5050 boots with the 5050 Gisele design, defined by a new stretch-infused suede back shaft.
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