Cyclas RTW Fall 2018

There was a more outgoing side to buyer-turned-designer Keiko Onose’s fall collection, her first on the official presentation calendar. Onose has built her business through her understanding of what women want to buy, crafting pared-back, understated designs in high-end fabrics: pretty pleated skirts, chunky knits and minimalistic wool coats.

But there were also touches of eccentricity that could add a bit of oomph to the wardrobe, both in the increased focus on color – vivid yellow pants, a fuschia skirt and a variety of hues of green – and in her quirkier designs. These included a pair of wide, pleat-fronted pants in a bronze and green check that could not have been more on trend, and beige silk tops dotted with tufts of fur that were fun but perhaps less of a commercial fit.

Falling between these two registers, a black shearling bomber with fur-tipped sleeves and a voluminous plaid blanket coat were among the high notes.

Launch Gallery: Cyclas RTW Fall 2018

Related stories

Altuzarra's La Coupole Venue Gets Guests Reminiscing

Helena Bordon Talks Eyewear, Life in New York at Balmain

Morgane Polanski, Selah Marley Go Back to School With Carven

Get more from WWD: Follow us on Twitter, Facebook, Newsletter