Elie Saab Show Headlines Strong 2023 Edition of Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week
MILAN — The first Elie Saab bridal collection to be paraded on the runway headlined a strong edition of the five-day Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, which closed on April 23 in the Spanish city.
The brisk business in the bridal market and the easing of COVID-19 restrictions globally helped the fair return to pre-pandemic attendance, which totaled 21,500 visitors, up 15 percent compared to 2022 when the trade show staged its first physical fair in two years.
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Organizer Fira de Barcelona said Asian buyers, notably absent last year as reported, were back in force, with key retailers from China, Japan, South Korea and other countries in the Southeast Asia region among the 1,500 buyers who browsed through the fair’s pavilions and attended the runway shows.
“This edition confirms the take-off of the global bridal fashion market after the pandemic and its good prospects for growth, as well as the positioning of Barcelona as the undisputed appointment to see trends and close business deals due to the quality and internationality of the firms it brings together,” said show director Albasarí Caro.
According to Market Research, the global bridalwear market is poised to reach $83.5 billion in 2030, posting a compound annual growth rate of 4 percent over the next seven years.
Speaking with WWD at the time of her appointment last October, Caro made it clear that she was planning to forge ahead in the sign of continuity, while further fueling the fair’s international appeal and as the industry’s point of reference.
The Elie Saab show held as part of the Bridal Night gala event at the city’s Maritime Museum was inspired by the work of Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai, an ukiyo-e painter and printmaker whose close-ups of blooming flowers and serene landscapes were echoed in the evanescent and intricately embroidered gowns the Lebanese house sent down the runway.
“Walking the runway in Barcelona for the first time is a remarkable occasion for us just as presenting our collection ‘A sense of wonder’ during Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week in an exclusive show is a real pleasure,” said Elie Saab Jr., the company’s chief executive officer. Saab followed in the footsteps of guest designers Viktor & Rolf last year.
The Elie Saab collection hinged on lightweight and whimsical gowns that put an emphasis on the neckline and waist, a trend seen elsewhere at the five-day event. Floral embellishments done with sequins and pearls with an iridescent finish, as well as feathery details, added to the contemporary romantic vibe that ran through the collection.
Jesús Peiró, Sophie et Voilà, Isabel Sanchís, Yolancris and Rosa Clará were among the 34 bridal specialists joining Saab in showcasing their spring 2024 collections on the catwalk across the five days.
A roster of international brands was also part of the showcase, such as Vietnamese label Joli Poli, Ukrainian brands Wona Concept and Eva Lendel, Canada’s Ines Di Santo, who made her Barcelona debut this year, and Polish firm Agnieszka Swiatly.
Pronovias-owned Italian brand Nicole Milano embraced the neck- and waist-enhancing trend with a younger spin, parading gowns with high slits or plunging V-necks, oftentimes featuring voluminous ruffled skirts, as in a strapless minidress with a rebellious flair.
Overall, the trade show featured 350 exhibitors, two-thirds of which were international including Tony Ward, Zuhair Murad, Jenny Packham and Stéphane Rolland, which shared the showroom area at the fairgrounds with Ines Di Santo and Saab. Around 30 percent of the brands made their first appearance at the show this year.
The fair also introduced the seminal edition of the Barcelona Bridal & Fashion Awards, bestowing prizes on the best bridal and occasionwear creations recognizing their design, quality and sustainability credentials.
The nine winners included Vivienne Westwood for the best wedding dress; Viktor & Rolf Mariage for best women’s bridal collection, and Carlo Pignatelli for best groom fashion. Professor Jimmy Choo OBE, who since 2015 has been the creative director of The Atelier Couture brand, was awarded with a lifetime achievement prize.
The next edition of Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week will be held from April 17 to 21, 2024.
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