Good food, scenic canals and literary festivals in the overlooked Brecon Beacons

Continuing our series on overlooked British gems, we look at the bucolic, culinary and literary Welsh wonders of the Brecon Beacons National Park – often passed over in favour of popular Snowdonia to the country's north.

Bucolic? Does this mean I'll be camping?

Well, no actually. There's much more to the region than campsites and castles. Brecon Beacons Barn is a newly-renovated - and suitably isolated - accommodation option that gives you all the benefits of sleeping in the middle of a field with none of the drawbacks. 

Beautifully-appointed bedrooms, an open-plan living space, and a state-of-the-art gym and hot tub all come complete with 360-degree views. Wake up surrounded by countryside - but ensconced in luxury. 

Will I be surrounded by sheep?

Brecon isn't all mutton, you know. After all, the area is arguably as well-known for its Hay festival as it is for our fluffy friends – hit the right week in May and you could spend more time with your nose in a book than rolling around in the hay...

Didn't I see Prunella Scales in Brecon?

You did. And you could follow in the wake of the star and her husband Timothy West on a canal narrowboat experience from Goytre Wharf, Abergavenny, marvelling at this bastion of Great British industry (and the ducks you’ll meet along the way, maybe even a mink too…)

There’s also a self-drive option, but it's likely a helmsman will not only be better at three-point turns, but provide an absorbing line in canal history, too.

And what of the world-famous Welsh cakes?

There are these, of course, aplenty, not to mention fruity Bara Brith. But Brecon is bursting with local fare, from the heartily delicious homemade menu and irresistibly baked sweet treats at the Brecon Beacons National Park Visitor Centre, a charmingly Postman Pat-esque drive through the National Park, to the Nantyffyn Cider Mill’s new Afternoon Tea picnic bench (cidermill.co.uk), where you should be sure not to judge on kerb appeal. Serving finger foods and small bites, the "benches" here are so mouthwateringly moreish that diners queue out the door to taste them, while children work up an appetite at the playground.

The locally-sourced ingredients that go to make the Insta-oozy American-style burgers at Hills (hillsbrecon.co.uk) are also worth tucking into.

Anything at the fine dining end of the scale?

Yep, and Shaun Hill’s Walnut Tree (thewalnuttreeinn.com) takes the Michelin-starred biscuit. A very buzzy, unstuffy, artfully rustic biscuit at that. If you're travelling with children and are concerned at the effect that primary schoolers might have on the early dinner crowd atmosphere, you need not be afraid.

"Children aren’t the problem: it’s the adults you need to watch," says Shaun. And with good reason too. From the pastel-hued botanical cocktails through to the richly red, slurpy-sweet cherry soup dessert, and the intriguing but accessible - and affordable - wine list full of artisan and smaller winemakers - there's plenty on the menu to lead adults astray.

That's before mentioning the food. Even those with a palate more attuned to savoury will consider the desserts out of this stratosphere and while you may happen upon the Walnut Tree while on holiday, you're sure to arrange the next trip around a revisit.

No eating on the hoof then?

No, but there's lots of fun to be had on horseback. The Brecon Beacons is renowned for its bridle paths and for good reason. Even a hour-long pootle on some of Cantref Horse Riding’s sturdy, well schooled cobs and ponies affords amazing views and, if the fancy takes you, some gallops too (cantref.com).

Sounds like a load of pony

Hidden away up a dirt track, you’d think the most surprising thing about Dinky Donkey was actually finding it. But no. An hour walking and picnicking with these adorable miniature furry fellas is proving more popular with grown up tourists than it is with the kids. Who knew?

For post-donkey sustenance, head to Talgarth Mill (talgarthmill.com), an 18th century flour mill today restored and run by the community as a traditional bakery - complete with a working waterwheel. A more inspiring example of an eco-friendly food enterprise is hard to find - do the tour, and the kids can try making flour themselves, too. The bread isn't too bad either - buy from the mill or sample a slice over at the Bakers Table Cafe just outside.