At Hadaka in Asbury Park, omakase is a new way to dine

Walking through the doors of Asbury Park's newest restaurant, I wasn't sure what to expect.

Hadaka, which opened last week on Bangs Avenue, is the first of its kind at the Shore. It offers an omakase experience, a multicourse meal where the chef — not the guest — decides what you eat.

Omakase, in Japanese, means "I'll leave it up to you."

"The chef is the menu," said owner Gino Ferretti, who opened the restaurant with Eddie Falzarano. "Whatever he orders, that's what we're going to serve."

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A bond broker whose work with Japanese colleagues took him to many sushi restaurants, Ferretti knew omakase would be a hit in Asbury Park. So far, he is right: Hadaka's 12 seats are booked every night.

Hadaka, Ferretti explained, translates to "naked" in Japanese, and the name is fitting. The restaurant's chefs, working behind a counter where guests watch every move, create dishes with so few ingredients, there is nowhere to hide.

The meal begins with a complimentary glass of sake to toast the chefs, who present and explain the fresh fish they'll be serving to their guests. They detail their ingredients during each course, making omakase as much a lesson in Japanese cuisine as it is a meal.

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Chef Sean Zou is the perfect one to teach: His restaurant experience includes Kappo Masa, a New York City sushi and Japanese restaurant from Chef Masayoshi Takayama, whose city restaurant Masa holds three Michelin stars.

Hadaka's menu changes based on the freshest seafood that's available both locally and from abroad, Ferretti said.

On my visit, that was Spanish mackerel with truffle butter, smoked beneath a glass cloche right before my eyes; a piece of buttery striped jack crowned by a tiny dollop of pesto and served alongside housemade pickles; Kama-toro, a decadently rich piece of tuna cheek, with salted egg yolk on top; cod, marinated in miso and washed in sake, torched to order; and New England king salmon, marinated in garlic soy sauce and sprinkled with truffle dust.

Each sauce, condiment and marinade is handmade and homemade, Zou said.

All were delicious, but the standouts were Chef Sean Zou's barbecue unagi (freshwater eel) with quail egg, eel sauce, sesame seeds and oshinko (pickled radish) — "before you eat it, you can mix it together," he guided; a beautiful Kumamoto oyster dressed with salmon roe, oyster sauce, tomato, radish and gold leaf; and a toro hand roll with sesame oil, cashews and creamy uni (sea urchin).

A cup of coconut milk tea completed the meal.

Hadaka's omakase is 12 or 18 courses; diners decide after the 12th dish if they'd like to continue. If there was a course they particularly enjoyed during the meal and would like again, a la carte additions are available.

This style of dining comes with a high price tag: $85 for 12 courses and $135 for 18. But sushi aficionados, and those who aspire to be, will enjoy the experience.

Go: 527 Bangs Ave., Asbury Park; 732-361-0238, hadakanj.com.

Sarah Griesemer joined the USA TODAY NETWORK New Jersey in 2003 and has been writing all things food since 2014. Send restaurant tips to [email protected], follow on Instagram at Jersey Shore Eats and subscribe to our Jersey Shore Eats newsletter.

This article originally appeared on Asbury Park Press: Asbury Park: Hadaka offers omakase, new way to dine at the Shore