This Roadkill Cook-Off Serves Crazy Good Food
Alice Kuhn had been hoping to kill a bear before this morning's cook-off. After a few years competing, she'd learned that the secret to winning one of the south's most famous - and downright bizarre - cooking competitions was coming up with a dish that'd stand out from the crowd. Other people can swear by pink Himalayan salt or truffle oil; she had a very different secret ingredient in mind.
But then again, this is a very different kind of competition, and in order to win, you've got to think off the menu. And, for that matter, more off-the-highway.
This is the West Virginia Roadkill Cook-Off.
Don't let the name fool you - or the competitors deceive you, who are all quick to joke they hit the deer, rabbits, and bear used on their way in that morning. They're not cooking with actual roadkill (there might be some food safety concerns with that, after all). The competition just requires that people make dishes using an animal that's often, well, struck as cars zip down the interstate.
Really though, the cheeky title's an excuse for the state's hunters and cooks to get together and cook backwoods-to-table. They embody the eat local movement, without the pretension that often comes with it.
Kendall Beverage, head of the first-time team Pendleton Community Bank Buckbusters, almost missed the competition. "It's the first day of bow-hunting season," he said. "I can't wait to get out there."
His team hunted the deer they used in Bambi's Revenge, a venison stir fry with bell peppers, onions, and "maggots," AKA Minute white rice. When he's not working at the bank, he's often out hunting, so competing just made sense. The team decked their tent out in camo, with a Bambi-meets-Rambo vibe, since presentation is just as important as making enough stir-fry to fill 2,000 sample cups to feed the masses.
This year, eight teams participated, like Roadkill veterans the Coal Hollow Brothers - who went with a Hawaiian venison and chorizo chili, decking their tent out with inflatable palm trees, a hand-painted map, and handing out leis to the 20,000 people who flocked to Marlinton, West Virginia for the competition. During this weekend, the population swells from its usual 1,016, all with people curious to try roadkill-inspired dishes.
To entice people to join, the Pocahantas County Chamber of Commerce pays each team $100 if they sign up early. It's designed to help offset the costs of preparing the meal, though some competitors said they spent upwards of $1,000 to trick out their tents, buy ingredients and cover travel. Over the course of the day, a team of three judges will vote on their first, second, and third-place choices, with the grand-prize winner taking home an engraved cutting board and $1,200.
For the judges, winning all comes down to elevating the meat people would reduce to "roadkill," showing just how good this uncommon game can be when prepared properly. Venison chili's a common choice, though this year, bear stew, rabbit alfredo, and Country Roads Cookin's falafel and wontons kept things interesting. Last year, iguana tacos were a fan favorite.
After the votes were tallied, the results were in: The Hillsboro Hillbillies' rabbit alfredo took third, PCB Buckbusters' stir fry swept second, and the Coal Hollow Brothers clenched another grand prize win with their taste of the tropics.
"It'll be seed money for next year," said Ed Blackford, as he took off an apron printed with ripped, tanned six-pack abs on it. "On the drive back home, we'll start planning next year's theme. We have a few ideas, and we can't wait to start."
They're not driving back until the next morning. Until then, they'll be celebrating their win. And polishing off the rest of that venison chili.
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