The T&C Guide to NYC's Most Classic Restaurants
New York City is home to some of the country's most historic bars and restaurants, some of which date back to the mid-1800s. They vary in style, cuisine, atmosphere, and clientele, and often vie for bragging rights as the oldest in the city. But one thing all these establishments have in common is they each hold a significant place in the eating and drinking culture of New York, a place where it's difficult to keep a bar or restaurant open for a year, let alone a century. Here's a list of some of the best places to experience the long, rich gustatory history New York City has to offer.
It wasn't until 1970 that McSorley's admitted its first woman customer. This is especially astounding considering the East Village watering hole has been around since 1854 (or so they claim, historical records are unclear). Today, you will find plenty of females mixed in among the drunken masses, most double-fisting mugs of light and dark beer–that's all they serve. There's food available to order, including a weirdly satisfying cheese and onion plate, but that's not the real draw. You come here for the atmosphere, the sawdust on the floor, the mix of longtime regulars and party-seeking interlopers, and the joy of not having to sift through a four-page craft beer menu.
15 East 7th Street, 212-473-9148
Patsy's has been serving up its elevated version of red sauce Italian comfort food since 1944 in Midtown Manhattan. Bandleader Tommy Dorsey introduced Frank Sinatra to the restaurant back in the day, and Old Blue Eyes soon become a regular fixture—there's even a dish named after him (Frank Sinatra Veal Milanese). Contemporary celebrities like George Clooney, Ben Stiller, and Jennifer Lopez all count themselves among the fans of this old-school establishment. Dress code here is smart-casual, and Chef Sal Scognamillo (the third generation of Scognamillo chefs – his grandfather Patsy opened the place) keeps it classy but familiar with recommended dishes like spaghetti and meatballs, linguini with clams, and stuffed artichoke. And if you can't make it to the restaurant, you can find Patsy's bottled marinara sauce in grocery stores across the country.
236 West 56th Street, 212-247-3491
This legendary, upscale Midtown restaurant has been an NYC institution since opening in its current location in 1930. Prohibition may have been in its final throes at the time, but that didn't stop the joint from getting raided by the feds. Owners Jack Kriendler and Charlie Berns installed an elaborate wine cellar hidden behind a fake door where they could hide liquor (and patrons, if necessary) during future raids. Today, you can tour the cellar by request and view bottles on hold for deceased celebrities and ex-presidents, as well as an impressive collection of ancient liquor and wine. Upstairs, the formally attired crowd (jackets required, gentlemen) dines on classic fare including the 21 Caesar Salad, Creamy Chicken Hash, and the ever-popular 21 Burger, which has been on the menu since day one.
21 West 52nd Street, 212-582-7200
In 1837, Delmonico's morphed from a small pastry and coffee shop into "the first fine dining restaurant in the country," according to management. The steakhouse lives on today in NYC's Financial District, serving expense-account-priced cuts of prime beef, along with a few signature dishes to which the restaurant lays claim. These include Eggs Benedict, a concoction that one Mrs. LeGrand Benedict and Chef Charles Ranhofer came up with in the 1860s; Baked Alaska, Ranhofer's invention celebrating the purchase of Alaska from the Russians; the eponymous Delmonico Steak (a boneless ribeye); Lobster Newberg, favorite of a dandy sea captain and frequent customer at Delmonico's; and Chicken a la Keene, a pimento and cream sauce dish created by Ranhofer in honor of horse breeder Foxhall P. Keene. All of these dishes can still be found on the menu at this luxurious, old-school downtown restaurant, an elegant relic of NYC's storied history.
56 Beaver Street, 212-509-1144
There are a million and one steakhouses in New York, but for atmosphere alone Keens might be the prime choice. Long clay pipes line the ceiling, a relic from the days when patrons could join a Pipe Club and keep their own stored at the restaurant. Members included Teddy Roosevelt, Albert Einstein, Babe Ruth, and "Buffalo Bill" Cody. The steakhouse opened in 1885, and played host to actors, producers, playwrights, and editors over the years. All the steaks are dry-aged on the premises, and the Legendary Mutton Chop is a must-try for any diner. Come for the meat, but stay for the incredible single malt scotch list, one of the deepest and most comprehensive in the entire city.
72 West 36th Street, 212-947-3636
Neirs is located far from the frenzy of Manhattan, out in the much quieter outer borough neighborhood of Woodhaven, Queens. This small watering hole was featured prominently in Scorsese's classic Goodfellas, among other film and TV projects, but still remains off the radar for many New Yorkers. According to Richard Hourahan of the Queens Historical Society, the bar opened in 1829 as the Old Blue Pump House, possibly granting it the one true title of oldest continually operating bar in NYC. Whatever the case may be, neighborhood regulars frequently gather here to imbibe and perhaps scarf down a burger or two at this self-described "true, unpretentious, historic gem."
87-48 78th Street, Woodhaven, New York, 718-296-0600
Could this beautiful red brick building near Battery Park legitimately be the actual oldest restaurant/bar in New York City? It's very possible. Fraunces Tavern has been in operation since 1762, according to its website, although it's taken on various incarnations over the past few centuries. These days, a huge variety of beer and whiskey is served along with oysters, chowder, burgers, and meat every which way—from stew to potpie to fillets. The dining room keeps the Colonial theme in mind with wooden benches and tables for seating, along with a musket or two on the walls. And Dublin's Porterhouse Brewing Co. calls the tavern home as well, ensuring a focus on quality beer.
54 Pearl Street, 212-968-1776
The Ear Inn claims to be "the oldest working bar in NYC"–another salvo in the battle to claim the title of Oldest New York Watering Hole. It's located in the James Brown House near the Hudson River, registered as a landmark on the National Register of Historic Buildings, so it has that credibility working for it. It's been a bar since at least the mid-1800s, but only became known as Ear Inn in 1977–partly because it was easy to change the neon sign reading "Bar" to "Ear," and partly because "Ear Magazine" was published in the building. What you'll find here today are lots of beer, $8.50 hamburgers–a true bargain in this city of countless gourmet burgers–along with a more extensive menu, and the occasional live music performance.
326 Spring Street, 212-226-9060
Bemelmans, located a block away from Central Park at The Carlyle hotel on the Upper East Side, is a well-established (and well-heeled) NYC institution, for good reason. For years, Woody Allen has had an off-and-on residency with his New Orleans jazz band at the Café Carlyle across the lobby, drawing fans of film and old-timey jazz alike. But the bar is best known for the murals created by its namesake, Ludwig Bemelmans, creator of the "Madeline" series of children's books. Bemelmans opened in 1947 and retains its post-war Art Deco design, with an impressive granite bar and gold-leaf-plastered ceiling. The wine list is expansive, the bar menu pricey, and the cocktail offerings creative and innovative. Ultimately, though, an ice-cold martini is probably the best way to go here–the bartender will keep whatever doesn't fit into your glass on ice for a refill.
35 East 76th Street, 212-744-1600
The neighborhood joint is a disappearing breed in today's New York. Thankfully, places like Donohue's, located on the Upper East Side, still exist. This tiny, unassuming gem opened in 1950 and remains a family-run restaurant to this day. Stepping inside is like entering a time warp back to a forgotten New York, as elderly regulars fill the dark leather booths with red tablecloths, and third-generation owner Maureen Donohue makes sure everyone is comfortable. The prices are far below what you'll pay at other NYC steakhouses–although Donohue points out that they all get their beef from the same purveyors. But she's focused on community over corporate accounts. Try the broiled prime sirloin steak, some freshly caught fish from Long Island, or come in for a burger at lunch–Donohue's opens at 11:30am.
845 Lexington Avenue, 212-744-0938
The T&C Guide to NYC's Most Classic Restaurants
New York City is home to some of the country's most historic bars and restaurants, some of which date back to the mid-1800s. They vary in style, cuisine, atmosphere, and clientele, and often vie for bragging rights as the oldest in the city. But one thing all these establishments have in common is they each hold a significant place in the eating and drinking culture of New York, a place where it's difficult to keep a bar or restaurant open for a year, let alone a century. Here's a list of some of the best places to experience the long, rich gustatory history New York City has to offer.
From secret histories to the signature dishes to order, here's a primer on the dining institutions of the Big Apple.
Solve the daily Crossword
