#LFW: Gareth Pugh's Call to Battle

Photo: Getty Images

Last night saw the return of British designer Gareth Pugh to the London runways after seven years showing in other cities. Pugh, who is celebrating the ten year anniversary of his label, enacted an intense and emotional fashion show which almost brought some of the audience to tears (ok, it was me, it almost brought me to tears).

The show started with a short film by his longtime collaborator Ruth Hogben, which depicted a woman with long blonde hair, in clothes reminiscent of the 15th century, sitting alone in a room, holding a pair of large scissors between her hands. She is focused.  Suddenly, she starts cutting her own hair, in an act of both defiance and rebellion (the whole scene is reminiscent of Joan of Arc). The woman grabs a pot of red paint, and paints Saint George’s Cross across her face and body. Flames engulf the screen. She is ready for battle.

Photo: Getty Images

And now the fashion starts. Models dressed in all black, their faces painted red, march down the runway in thick patent leather boots, to the beat of the soundtrack, which is not at all music, but the sound of war: drums, screams (which were actually the chants of the Sunderland Football Club), the murmur of a crowd in the distance. Some women wear elaborate headdresses that resemble war helmets, with long ponytails that swing wildly side to side to the keeping the beat of the march. Others wear their hair in short, choppy cuts shorn to the nape of the neck.

Photo: Getty Images

Stripped away of the theatrics, the clothes were actually quite practical. There were fitted jackets with exposed zippers, beautiful double breasted coats, capes, and evening dresses that glittered against the light, with long beads that resembled crystals, but were actually drinking straws. Although the collection was all black, the contrast between materials like leather, pony hair, and the aforementioned drinking straws, created a range of blacks that was never boring.

Photo: Getty Images

Seeing the last model marching down the runway, topless, with her body painted, carrying a giant red flag, and being followed by the rest of the models, actually gave me chills. It was powerful, empowering, and like the show notes said, “fierce and full of hope.”

Related: #LFW: Menswear Shines at Central Saint Martins’ MA Show

Related: Marc Jacobs Gets Inspired By Diana Vreeland For His Fall Show