Inside London's Star-Studded Burberry Show
The final walk at Burberry’s spring 2016 show at London’s Kensington Gardens. Photo: Instagram/@burberry.
More pretentious designers might want their clothes, not the runway spectacle, to be the point of their shows — but Burberry’s Christopher Bailey harbors no such illusions. So much so that he ruffled a few fashion peoples’ feathers by debuting this season’s looks on Snapchat last night — 12 hours ahead of today’s runway show. Some sniffed about the loss of exclusivity (“what’s the point of even going now?” one editor remarked). But if Bailey wasn’t worried, it’s because he knew he had a few tricks up his sleeve yet.
A Burberry model struts in front of the orchestra pit where Alison Moyet performed. Photo: Instagram/@burberry.
First, there was the spectacular venue. Held at London’s Kensington Gardens in front of the golden, Victorian-gothic statue of Prince Albert, Burberry constructed a giant white hall with a sunken orchestra pit in the center of the runway. There, British singer Alison Moyet performed an arresting set backed by grand piano and strings — a welcome change from the thumping DJ sets and acid-house music that’s soundtracked many London shows. It’s not often you look around the room and see high-powered editors-in-chief in a happy haze and swaying slightly, but Moyet’s set took us somewhere.
Suki Waterhouse, Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, and Cara Delevigne sit front row at Burberry. Photo: Instagram/@burberry.
As always at Burberry, there was the star-studded front row. This writer may or may not have texted “Kate the Great just walked right by me” to all her friends just before the show started (only in all caps). Kate Moss, wearing a leopard coat, joined a cadre of fellow models, including many current or past Burberry faces, in front row: Jourdan Dunn, Cara Delevigne, her sister Poppy, Liu Wen, and Suki Waterhouse. Sienna Miller entered in a teal teddy-bear coat and bounded up to Anna Wintour, and the two embraced like old pals. So no shade about the whole September Issue thing, I guess (and let no one tell you Wintour doesn’t grin). And an audible buzz went through the ladies — and guys too, actually — when Benedict Cumberbatch walked in wearing a smart suit, rather oddly accessorized with a worn leather briefcase. “Is he going to a lecture?” a Brit editor quipped.
Burberry models line up before showtime. Photo: Instagram/@burberry.
The clothes, as always, evinced a British youthfulness and cool. Military-detailed outerwear covered laser-cut minidresses. Many models sported slouchy backpacks with their initials. Others wore long, flowing silk goddess dresses that were sheer on top.
Cage shoes and belt bags on Burberry models. Photo: Instagram/@burberry.
Shoes were either chunky black Greek-style flatforms with gold hardware, or sexy cage heels (is it time for those to come back already?). The standout accessories were, without a doubt, the leather crossbody bags with thick, belt-strap closures that had a tough-schoolgirl feel. Maybe they’ll make them in briefcase form so Benedict can upgrade.
At the end, the crowd gave Moyet the most genuine applause I’ve heard at a show yet, and Bailey ran out on the runway to give her a huge hug. It was a moving end — and proof that Bailey is wise to so generously share the spotlight.
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