Seriously? Valentino Just Showed A ‘Primitive’ African Themed Collection for Spring 2016

The finale of Valentino’s SS16 runway show in Paris on Tuesday. Photo: Getty

Not a fashion month can go by without a collection that makes the world at large go, “Hmm…” Not because the clothes aren’t beautiful, but because the theme is just a tiny bit… off. Such was the case with Valentino’s African-inspired offering for spring 2016, which hit the runway in Paris on Tuesday.

So, let’s just get into it. We were uneasy the moment we saw those cornrow buns. There has been a lot of talk about cultural appropriation in the fashion industry, particularly when it comes to black cultural trends and hairstyles. Whether it’s Marc Jacobs’ “mini-buns” (bantu knots), Kendall Jenner’s “bold braids” (cornrows) or what some publications call an “urban tie cap” (durag), all too often the styles that have been around in black communities are pushed to the wayside or looked down upon until some high fashion designer “discovers” them and puts them on a tall, skinny Dutch girl. All of a sudden, the looks become chic, edgy, and aspirational.

Photo: Getty

And honestly, the cornrows debate has been going on for so long that we’re tired of talking about it; it’s no one’s job to police folks’ tresses. But when you state your collection is inspired by Africa and then out of 90 looks, as Fashionista points out, you cast fewer than 10 black models, it’s hard not notice there’s a real problem here.

Beyond the blatant cultural appropriation of cornrows, the Italian brand added insult to routine fashion-related micro-aggression via their description of the collection, which is something of a slap in the face. Scroll through the label’s Instagram account and you’ll find the kind of cliché’d, offensive verbiage often used when discussing African influences. “The finale of the #SpringSummer16 show is a journey to the beginning of time and the essential of primitive nature,” the brand captioned an image of the final walk. “Primitive, tribal, spiritual, yet regal,” another caption reads.

A look from Valentino’s SS16 collection. Photo: Getty Images

There are plenty of industrialized cities in Africa, booming with culture. The idea of “primitive” Africa, such a loaded term, is tired. Africa is more than just beads and Masai warriors (whom we wouldn’t call ‘primitive’ in the first place). People drive cars, use computers and wear lipstick like we do in Europe and the United States. But we always go back to this “primitive” vision of Africa, a degrading, tired trope that needs to stop.

To borrow a line from Amandla Stenberg, what would fashion be like if we loved African people as much as we love African culture?

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